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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.